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By Stephen Sothmann from Real Leather. Stay Different – a campaign to promote the sustainable qualities of leather and champion slow style over fast fashion

Thanks to new processes and technologies, the leather production industry has cut its water footprint by 37% in the past 25 years and it’s improving all the time. Read on to discover more about the innovation that is reducing tanneries’ water usage by up to 40% whilst lowering their chemical use. And trace the industry’s first steps towards water-free tanning as it makes good on its commitment to provide a slow style alternative to the wastefulness of fast fashion.

Water is a vital resource – crucial for the survival of every living thing, intrinsic to agriculture and industry, and a critical component in leather production. But there is only so much of it to go around, with evidence suggesting that two-thirds of the world population could be living in water-stressed countries by 2025 if current consumption patterns continue.

The leather industry is keenly aware of the need to use this precious resource more efficiently to meet legal requirements or guidelines as well as its own quest for sustainability. Its efforts have paid off and, thanks to new processes and technology innovations, it has reduced its water footprint by more than 35% in the past 25 years.

As important as water is, or has traditionally been, in the leather-making process, some tanners and leather manufacturers have proved that it’s possible to achieve the same leather look and feel using far less water than before. And they’ve shown that doing so leads to additional benefits, further improving leather’s environmental credentials.

Soaking without soaking

One way to reduce water use in leather is to tan the hide immediately after slaughter. Traditionally, hides are salted or brined to preserve them until they can be further processed into leather. The initial beam house operations include liming and washing the hide to remove the salt before tanning. 

Today, a growing number of tanners are processing the fresh hides immediately, eliminating the need to use salt as a preservative and to remove the salt through a freshwater wash. This initial tanning realigns the cellular structure of the hide to create the first stage of a leather product, often called wet blue because of its colour.  The United States, a major hide supplier, has increased exports of wet blue from about 10-15% of production in the early 1990s to more than 30% in 2020. Most of this wet blue is created from raw hides.

Using fresh hides also reduces salt in the wastewater. “Salt in the effluent is more and more of a problem because it can’t be cleaned easily,” says Thomas Heinen, CEO of German tanner and outdoor footwear specialist Heinen Leather, whose clients include Lowa, Meindl, and Clarks.

Reducing wastewater pollution is a moral imperative and legal requirement for the global leather industry.  Using less salt in the process is one way the industry is meeting this challenge directly.

The small spheres making a big difference

Another innovation helping tanners do things differently and more water-efficiently is Sferes. Developed by Qualus, these polymer balls about the size of jelly beans replace over 30% of the water needed for the tanning and retanning.

Sferes work by driving chemicals deep into the fibre structure of the hides. This means that not only less water but also less chemicals are needed, leading to a reduction in effluent and wastewater processing. Also, Qualus has developed a proprietary cleaning system that removes the residual leather fibres and dyes from the surface of the Sferes so that they can be used all over again – continuing the cycle of benefits.

Lefarc, one of the most sustainable tanneries in Mexico, has been taking advantage of these sphere-shaped innovations for the past year to produce leather for brands including Timberland and Wolverine.

“By employing this technology, we can produce leather more sustainably, delivering better aesthetics and improving its physical properties,” says Francisco Rios Warren, Lefarc’s head of commercial.

“Additionally, we have reduced our water use by between 30 and 40% while maintaining our quality standards and improving the condition of our wastewater.”

Towards water-free tanning

ECCO Leather (ECCO), the global footwear brand, is going even further with what it describes as “the first solid step towards water-free leather manufacturing” with its DriTan Technology.

The breakthrough process uses the moisture already present in hides in the tanning process. According to the company, implementing the technology in its tannery in The Netherlands saves 20 litres of water per hide or 25 million litres annually. It also minimizes the use of chemicals and reduces effluent; the company reports eliminating 600 tons of sludge, roughly 40 truckloads, from landfills per year, without any drop-off in the quality of the leather produced.

“It took a lot of research, investment, and manpower – a strong cocktail of science, know-how, and traditional craft,” says Thomas Gøgsig, Head of Applied Research at ECCO.

“But the biggest challenge was in opening our eyes. Tanning is a very old and traditional industry, so people tend to forget to ask: Can it be done differently?”

ECCO is actively working to spread the benefits of this water-saving innovation. The latest iteration, DriTan 2.0, has now been fully implemented at the company’s tannery in Indonesia and is in the process of being implemented in other facilities.

Reduce, reuse, recycle

The leather industry doesn’t only consider the amount of water it uses, but also the quality of water it discharges into the environment. In many countries, tanning and finishing are strictly regulated and companies are required to comply with stringent wastewater requirements. In Europe, where EU regulations eliminate solid waste disposal, tanning facilities are experimenting by reclaiming their water and reusing it in the tanning process. In addition, they are further processing the sludge for use as a fertilizer, a mixer for cement, or an alternative energy source.

The Scottish Leather Group (SLG), for instance, a leading supplier to the European aviation industry, treats and then recycles 40% of its wastewater back into the production process.

The net result of the industry’s smarter processes and use of technology innovations is less water, cleaner water, and a much more sustainable manufacturing process.

Leather may be one of the oldest industries in the world but if it keeps on innovating and adapting the way it has done in the past 25 years, there’s no knowing what it might achieve in the future. ECCO’s vision of water-free leather manufacturing might not be too far-fetched after all.

Read the article online here.

In 2015 the United Nations launched a collection of 17 ambitious Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) designed to be a “blueprint to achieve a better and more sustainable future for all”. The aspiration to achieve these goals by 2030 will only be fulfilled if industries as a whole and individual companies fully accept and commit to their responsibility in building a better future.

The leather industry, which each year uses an estimated 400 – 500 billion litres of water and large quantities of chemicals, can certainly be a key contributor to achieving these goals. Our industry has already come a long way in the last 30 years and can set an example for others in continuing to improve its environmental footprint.

Qualus’ Sfere technology can help tanneries address four SDGs.

Sustainable Development Goal 6: Clean Water and Sanitation for All

SDG 6 aims to “ensure availability and sustainable management of water and sanitation for all,” a key element of which is increasing water-use efficiency and ensuring freshwater supplies. A mere 3% of the Earth’s water resources are of freshwater. As the world’s population grows and freshwater resources continue to decline, an ever-increasing number of people are regularly faced with the challenges of water scarcity.

Qualus’ Sfere technology reduces the water required for tanning and retanning of leather by 40% to 50%, thereby enabling the greater availability of safe and affordable freshwater for drinking and sanitation.

Sustainable Development Goal 9: Industry, Innovation and Infrastructure

SDG 9 aims to “build resilient infrastructure, promote sustainable industrialization and foster innovation.” One of the primary targets for achieving this SDG is to make industries sustainable “with increased resource-use efficiency and greater adoption of clean and environmentally sound technologies.” Manufacturing is of course an essential element of the global economy, not only because of the need for products, but also because the livelihood of 14% of the world’s population depends directly on manufacturing. The key, however, is to make it sustainable by producing more with less and wasting as little as possible.

Sfere technology supports SDG 9 by reducing the chemicals required for tanning and retanning (typically by 10% to 15%) and more effectively delivering the chemicals to the hides. By enhancing the mechanical action in the drum, processing with Sferes results in better delivery of chemicals into the hide, thereby requiring less chemicals to be dosed into the drum. Not only are the input chemicals reduced (without compromising the quality of the leather), but as more of the chemicals end up in the hide, less chemicals are wasted, resulting also in significantly cleaner effluent. Less chemicals in, better delivery of chemicals to the hide, less chemicals wasted, and cleaner effluent!

Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production

SDG 12 aims to ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns. One of the key ways of doing so is to “substantially reduce waste generation through prevention, reduction, recycling and reuse.” In conventional tanning and retanning processes, the water used for processing is typically discharged as effluent. I.e., the water from the process cannot be reused and must be discharged as waste after each cycle.

By replacing significant quantities of water with Sferes as the delivery mechanism or “carrier” for the chemicals, tanneries can transition to a more sustainable production as targeted by SDG 12. First, water usage is reduced. Second, the Sferes, unlike water, are captured for reuse after each cycle. And finally, after being used for hundreds of cycles, Sferes can be recycled into new Sferes or upcycled into other products. Sferes help tanneries reduce, reuse, and recycle, thereby enabling a more sustainable method of production.

Sustainable Development Goal 13: Climate Action

SDG 13 aims to “take urgent action to combat climate change and its impacts”. Essential to doing so is lowering the carbon footprint of industrial activity. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report from 2018 stated that to limit global warming to 1.5 °C would require global net human-caused emissions of carbon dioxide to fall by about 45% from 2010 levels by 2030. Whenever considering the carbon footprint impact of a change in process, it’s essential to conduct a full life cycle analysis (LCA) to ensure that any gains in one area are not negated or overshadowed by losses elsewhere.

An LCA review of the Sfere technology assessed the positive carbon footprint impact of reducing water and chemical usage alongside the impact of producing Sferes. The study found that the Sfere technology has the potential to lower the carbon footprint of the tanning industry by 750,000 tonnes each year!

The leather industry produces an essential product whose aesthetic and technical properties cannot be replicated by other materials. Our industry has already come a long way in recent decades in developing sustainable production processes and has the potential to go even further. Qualus’ Sfere technology can help tanneries become even more sustainable while also boosting profits without compromising the quality of their products.

To learn more about our innovative Greentech, please email info@qualus.com.

Published in the Society of Leather Technologists & Chemists journal, Volume 105

R. P. DANIELS*, D. CUTNER and A. SADEGHI – Qualus, U. K.

Abstract

Inert polymer spheres, when used within processing floats, enhance the uptake of chemicals and products used in leather manufacture. The same float volume can be maintained, but with less water, hence increased chemical concentrations.

This is useful in neutralising, retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes, especially where the chemical costs are high, and the materials complex. These applications enable production of the same types of leathers, but from lower chemical offers. It provides significant reductions in unused products, normally discharged for effluent treatment.

1. INTRODUCTION

An established technique when washing fabrics on commercial scale is to add inert polymer spheres to the washing cycle. This produces savings in both water and energy consumed, and also in detergent use and conditioning products.

The same loadings and volumes are employed, but the part-replacement of water means higher concentrations of washing aids, hence greater efficiency. At the same time, a gentle massaging or kneading action within the washing cycle develops, that stretches out creases and folds.

Similarly, spheres can be used to introduce chemicals into the leather structure. The float volume (water and spheres) can be the same as the established process, but with less water. This provides a fast distribution of specialised products throughout the processing vessel, being essential for the uniform offer of these materials to the leather. Good separation of the leather in process with full access to chemicals in solution is ensured too. The increase in concentration offers improved efficiency of process.

However, upon rotation, the spheres held within the leather folds also aid penetration within the fibre structure. These ʻmicro-actionsʼ help to avoid over
fixation on grain and flesh parts that could otherwise occur due to rapid and efficient chemical uptake.

2. DISCUSSION

Cost savings can be made by reducing the quantities of chemicals used in the areas of neutralising, retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring. These can be considerable, but for success – that is the ʻsameʼ leather at the end of the process – three quite different events must take place at the same time:

• The conditions within the established process must change to get a better uptake of products. If this is done as a single event (without chemical reductions), the chemical uptake will be greater, but the leather will have too much filling and will be over lubricated.

• There must be a reduction in chemical offer, so that the total uptake matches the original process. This is where the cost savings from lower chemical use becomes clear.

• The products must be distributed throughout the leather structure in the same way as the original process. If this is not achieved, the leather will be ʻdifferentʼ.

This is not an easy matter. Changes within an established process – managing smaller amounts of the same chemicals to create the same products – are limited.

2.1 Managing the chemical process

The techniques that control chemical reactions are fixed, and of common knowledge to tanners. They can be summarised as:

• pH control, for manipulation of the charge and the rate of fixation.
• Temperature adjustment, as this directly affects the speed of the chemical reaction.
• Time management, as this optimises the uptake of chemicals in the time available.
• Concentration, as the rate and efficiency of the reaction is dependent upon strength of the chemicals in the float.

Changes to pH, temperature and time in conjunction with a reduced chemical offer, can give the same uptake of products in total, but their locations throughout the leather structure will be different.

Typically, there may be an acceptable uptake on the grain and flesh parts, but the inner most sections remain under processed. The leather will be too firm, and probably under filled. Chemical control alone cannot make the same product from a lower chemical offer. However, if a higher concentration is created by using less float, then the process becomes more efficient. This provides the opportunity to reduce the chemical offer so that the leather uptake remains the same in total.

The greater mechanical action created by the lower float conditions ensures better penetration of those products too, as appropriate, deep into the fibre structure. This is needed to match the original leather characteristics. But increased action can cause an over-stressing of the structure, with a loss in break characteristics, or even tearing. This is especially clear with more sensitive leathers, or of lower substance.

Moreover, lower float conditions do not enable a fast dispersion of products across the processing vessel.

This is essential for a uniform uptake of chemicals, and especially important where light surface dyeing, surface lubrication or fixations are needed. If float levels are
reduced beyond the level that ensures well-opened pieces in good contact with chemicals in solution, the movement changes to that of a single mass, or bundles of leather. This raises issues of irregular uptake and tangling. Effects include variations in colouration, drawn grain and uneven penetration. These limitations to low float processing depend upon the physical properties of the leather at the time of process, the load weight in relation to the capacity of the processing vessel, speed of rotation, and internal configurations. A high concentration offers a way to improve chemical uptake, but a different type of mechanical action is needed.

2.2 Sphere applications in neutralising, retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring systems

Sphere applications were developed by Qualus for six years before the introduction to commercial leather manufacture. In this different approach, inert polymer spheres are added to the process drum together with water.

The volume occupied by spheres and water remains as for normal use to provide good dispersion of products to well separated pieces. However, a reduced amount of water within the float causes an increase in the concentration of products employed. This ensures a better chemical uptake and provides the opportunity for a reduction in chemical offer too. At the same time, the spheres held within the folding and flexing leather pieces during process assist penetration and help avoid overstressing the structure. All other components of chemical control – pH, temperature, time – can remain unchanged.

The technique offers advantages within all aspects of chemical uptake, mainly the high expense areas of retannage, dyeing and fatliquoring. It is an established technology, and typically, overall reductions on full industrial scale are found to range between 10% and 15%.

The technology includes the retention of spheres throughout float exchange and washing sequences. This is regardless of size, services and the internal constructions of the processing vessel. The collection and cleaning of spheres after process, their storage and delivery to subsequent processes are all part of
the bespoke packages available to the tanner.

Sphere applications can be used by tanneries of any size, are easily evaluated, and can be moved into production as required. Management of the spheres can be performed within individual tanneries, but also within clusters. Here, a single location can provide washing and cleaning of the spheres, before delivery back to the tanneries for reuse. There are few limitations to implement this technology. It is a safe and long awaited means to reduce chemical offers, retain quality and reduce waste.

2.3 Chemical savings and reduced environmental demand

Leather is a very sensitive indicator of process success. Judgements are based on aesthetic characteristics, physical performance, the value of the final product, and costed chemical savings. Savings in water in process and energy for heating may be calculated and included too.

It is not possible, however, to determine cost advantage from a lowering of specific components in wastewater treatment. Retanning agents, dyestuffs and fatliquors are complex materials, used in multiple combinations, and beyond the scope of normal analysis. A useful technique is to measure the COD of the float against time throughout the process. These measurements need to include unbound materials introduced from previous processing stages, and subsequent washings from the structure. This shows the uptake of organic content in the process from start to finish, but it does not differentiate between individual components. It provides empirical information, but lacks detail. It is perhaps useful to consider a process that is, say, 70% efficient. Here, the uptake would be 70Kg for every 100Kg of product offered, with 30Kg of unused product discharged from process. If the same
result can be provided by a 10% reduction in chemicals, the offer would be 90Kg, and the unused product lowered to 20Kg. The load for subsequent chemical treatment, energy for biological treatment, and management of solids is reduced by 33%. If the process were 60% efficient, a 10% reduction in chemical offer would reduce the load by 25%. On the other hand, at 80% efficiency, the load would be
reduced by 50%.

These are hypothetical situations, however, they provide insight into the saving opportunities from more efficient processing. Savings in unused chemicals at
source – coupled with the elimination of those pristine products in subsequent wastewater treatment – can be seen as significant.

There may also be components within these products that are environmentally persistent and difficult to address within effluent treatment. Any reductions at source makes end-of-pipe discharge to consent limits more secure. Neutral salts are a consideration too, as these are often contained within commercial products. A lowering of TDS has direct implications within reverse osmosis costings, the water made available for reuse, and management of the residual dry solids.

3. CONCLUSIONS

• There are many advantages to adopting to the use of sphere technology for the improvement of chemical uptake in leather processing.
• Designed to purpose, this is a safe and longawaited means to significantly lower chemical offers in established processes.
• Spheres provide refinement of the mechanical actions applied throughout neutralising, retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring processes.
• Quality is maintained, and scope is offered for better processing as new types of leathers are developed.
• Significant quantities of pristine products presently channelled directly to wastewater treatment can be eliminated.
• It offers better use of resources – a major step towards a more sustainable future.

Download the article pdf here:

R. P. Daniels, D. Cutner, A. Sadeghi, Qualus, UK – World Leather

The part-replacement of water in a float by the addition of inert polymer spheres allows good distribution of products between individual skins in leather making. At the same time, the increase in concentration enables chemical savings within the existing process.

Cost advantage can be gained by reduced chemical offers if coupled with an improved uptake of chemicals. Benefits can be considerable – as long as the properties of the original leather are retained. And these savings are not just limited to the purchase values of those products. Pristine chemicals are no longer channelled directly for wastewater treatment.

In leather manufacture, the chemical process is managed mainly by adjustment of pH, temperature, and concentration. In particular, adjust the pH or temperature within an established process, and the uptake and distribution changes. It is no longer the “same” leather.

A lowering of float levels is another option, as low floats and higher concentration favours both chemical uptake and penetration. This however, can lead to excessive mechanical action, and leathers are easily over-stressed: they can tear, especially at low substances.

It can also change the leather movement from separate well-opened pieces to that of bundles of leather or a tangled mass. There are limitations to low float uses as issues of poor distribution, staining, irregular penetration, and nonuniformity are raised.

An engineered approach

The mechanical action provided by the processing vessel and its internal fittings and configurations defines the lowest float levels that can be used in a process. This sets limits for the delivery of chemicals to well-opened skins, and the mechanical action needed for penetration.

However, these drum actions can now be changed. If inert polymer spheres are introduced into the process, the float volume can remain the same but with less water in the system. The increase in concentration makes the chemical
uptake more efficient, and the free movement of pieces need not be jeopardised.

Moreover, the spheres provide a massaging action upon drum rotation as they are folded within the flexing leather structure, and this assists penetration. Uptake, distribution and penetration can mirror the original process, but from a lower chemical offer.

These developments are based on technology transfer from the industrial washing of fabrics, where spheres are incorporated into washing cycles. The lowering of water content means fewer detergents and conditioners are needed. Moreover, the operation results in less creasing when the fabrics are removed.

Similarly, in the areas of neutralising, retanning, dyeing and fatliquoring, reductions of between 10% and 15% are being achieved and water reductions of 30% have been reached too.

Savings: process and environmental

Chemical uptake is difficult to quantify. It involves measurements of float levels, chemicals of unknown composition and their uptake, and losses as residual products contained within wash waters.

But reductions in environmental impact become clear by considering a process of, say, 70% efficiency, but where the same result is being provided by a 10% reduction in chemicals. Originally, the uptake would be 70 kg for every 100kg of product offered, with 30kg of unused product remaining for disposal. If the uptake remains at 70kg, but with a 10% reduction in offer, i.e., 90kg, the unused product is lowered to 20kg. The load for subsequent chemical treatment, energy for biological treatment, and management of solids is reduced by 33%. In reality these values will differ, but they serve an illustrative purpose.

Judgements can be based on final leather aesthetics, physical leather properties, and precisely costed chemical savings. But in this new situation, significant quantities of pristine products avoid expensive wastewater treatment too.

Managing the technology

Sphere applications are fully established, and advantages can be gained especially in the high expense areas of retannage, dyeing and fatliquoring.

Developed over six years by Qualus before introductions to industry, the technology includes systems to retain spheres throughout float exchange and washing sequences. It includes the collection and cleaning of spheres after process, their storage and delivery to following processes.

There are few limitations within tanneries that would prevent the implementation of this technology. It is a safe and longawaited means to reduce chemical offers, to reduce waste, and a major step towards a sustainable future.

Future Net Zero: Are alternative leather materials as green and sustainable as their names imply? Recent research shows that many should in fact come with a sustainability health warning

Hardly a week goes by without a leading fashion brand announcing that it’s bringing out new products using a vegan or eco-leather alternative.

Labels are increasingly catering for environmentally conscious consumers who rightly or wrongly see natural leather as a problem.

But, are these alternative materials as green and sustainable as their names imply? Recent research shows that many should in fact come with a sustainability health warning.

The research was conducted by the widely respected FILK Freiburg Institute, which looked at the construction and technical performance of leather, artificial leather and other alternatives.

The German-based scientists looked at a number of materials and analysed their chemical compositions and their strengths and weaknesses compared with animal-based leather.

Surprising finds

What they found in some of the newer materials was highly surprising. More of that in a minute, but first the less surprising.

The most commonly used material that is cited as vegan leather, leatherette or faux leather is actually made from polyurethane (PU), polyvinyl chloride (PVC), or polyamide microfiber. In other words, plastic. PVC and PU leather is made from oil and is non-biodegradable. These materials leak toxic chemicals into the ground when placed in landfills, and emit toxic gasses when burned in an incinerator.

Understandably, the textile industry has been on the search for a more sustainable alternative to PU or PVC leather. In recent years, the focus has been on plant-based materials and it is these that FILK took a close look at.

In general, it found that most rely on backings to provide the strength and durability that is inherent in natural leather. However, these backings are far from sustainable and in many cases are plastic, being made from PU or PVC.

More worryingly, when FILK conducted tests for hazardous substances, it found restricted substances in samples of the following materials:

• Desserto
• Appleskin
• Vegea
• Pinatex

The analysis found considerable amounts of dimethylformamide (DMFa) and toluene and traces of N,N-dimethylacetamide. In Appleskin, butanone oxime and traces of DMFa were detected. Desserto contained the five restricted substances butanone oxime, toluene, free isocyanate, folpet (an organic pesticide), and traces of the plasticizer Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP). Toluene was detected in the sample of Vegea and DIBP in that of Pinatex.

A toxic sandwich?

Natural leather has many uses; shoes, gloves, jackets, car seats and furniture to name just a few. The most important mechanical properties needed are tensile strength and tear resistance.

In order to show anything close to the mechanical stability of natural leather, the alternatives depend on supporting fabrics to form a sort of sandwich. The most commonly used material is polyester, which is a synthetic fibre manufactured, like PVC and PU, from oil/petroleum. As a result, it is non-biodegradable. In addition, producing polyester takes twice as much energy as that needed to make cotton.

Another problem with polyester is microplastic pollution. It’s estimated that nearly 2,000 tiny fibres are released every time a polyester garment is washed and these end up in our rivers, seas and oceans. Environmentalists see polyester as such a problem that they even advise against the use of recycled polyester.

FILK research showed that Desserto and Appleskin both used knitted or woven polyester for support. They also discovered that Teak Leaf is another coated textile; its textile support is provided by two now woven layers – one made from cellulose and the other from polyester.

The problem with pineapples

Pinatex is a leather alternative made from pineapple leaves, a by-product from growing the tropical fruit. The business behind Pinatex, Ananas Anam, sources its leaves directly from farmers in the Philippines. However, if pineapple leather becomes more widespread consumers would be advised to ask where the raw material has been grown.

In some places, growing pineapples relies on heavy use of chemical pesticides and this is causing problems in countries like Costa Rica, where the chemicals have contaminated water supplies.

Leather industry improving its game

In response to environmental concerns, leather producers are working to make the tanning business more sustainable. Many tanneries are now audited by the Leather Working Group, which is an initiative backed by suppliers, manufacturers and brands.

Tanneries are rated on their energy and water use, emissions and chemical input, as well as the traceability of their supply chain.

The recently launched Sustainable Leather Foundation aims to improve the industry through education and best practice, while providing consumers with factual information about leather, so they can have confidence when they buy. Its founding partners include Mulberry, Qualus and Deckers Brands.

Qualus uses patented Sfere technology to improve the sustainability of the tanning and retanning process. Small polymer spheroids partially replace water as the delivery mechanism and drive chemicals deeper and more uniformly into the hide, resulting in a more consistent product with smaller volumes of chemicals. Results show that water use is cut by up to 40% and chemical use by 25%.

Saving water and reducing or changing the chemicals used in the leather industry is at the forefront of other significant developments.  One promising technology is Zeology from Nera. It offers a sustainable alternative to existing tanning agents by using a chemical formula that is free of chrome, heavy metals and aldehyde.

The footwear brand, Ecco, has developed a process called DriTan, which it says saves 20 litres of water per hide in the tanning process. It also cuts the amount of chrome needed which results in less effluent.

The German chemicals company, LANXESS, has developed a process called ‘Resource-efficient manufacturing of leather chemicals” (ReeL), which recycles shavings in the tannery on site. The shavings are used to produce X-Biomer retanning agents automatically within a modular facility. This new technology eliminates the cost of transporting materials for off-site recycling or disposal.

A lot of research has gone into reducing the volumes of water used in leather tanning. One promising solution comes from China-based, BIOSK Chemicals. It has developed technology to store wastewater from each stage of the process so that it can be used again.

Looking at these developments it’s clear leather will go a long way to answering its critics over the issue of environmental impact in the next few years.  Of course, consumers opposed to the use of real leather because it is an animal by-product won’t be persuaded by anything the industry does. However, those who may have turned their backs on leather believing vegan alternatives are the sustainable choice may be surprised by how the choice is more complex than it first appears.

Paul Curran, Future Net Zero

Qualus is proud to be a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation, whose aim is to support the industry to develop more sustainable practices in leather manufacture.

The Foundation was established in 2020 as a not for profit organisation with a focus to improve the whole of the leather industry through education and best practice.

A key part of the Foundation’s work will be to provide consumers with concise and accurate factual information about leather, so they can have confidence when they buy.

Other founding partners of the Sustainable Leather Foundation include brands, tanneries, chemical companies, machinery companies, technology providers and consultants (full list here)

Deborah Taylor, Managing Director, Sustainable Leather Foundation, said, “We’re incredibly pleased to have Qualus join us as one of our founding partners. At the Foundation, we recognise that new technology has a key role to play to make the tanning process more sustainable. Qualus has already proved it can make a difference to the amount of water and chemicals used by tanneries and that is great news for the environment.”

Vikrant Pratap, CEO, Qualus, said, “We are delighted to have the opportunity to join the Sustainable Leather Foundation as a founding partner because our values are so in line with theirs. We are committed to making the tanning and leather industries as sustainable as possible through the use of new technology and shared good practice. We believe our Sfere technology can dramatically improve the sustainability footprint of brands that work with leather, whether they are in the fashion or automotive industries. We look forward to sharing the lessons we have learnt with our fellow Foundation members.”

More information here: https://www.sustainableleatherfoundation.com/